Ancient Pagan Sites Still Standing in Christian Rome

Rome, the Eternal City, is a living testament to layers of history, where the ancient and the sacred intertwine in fascinating ways. As Christianity rose to prominence, it often didn’t raze pagan structures entirely, but rather absorbed, transformed, or built upon them, creating a unique overlap that defines Rome’s urban fabric. This conversion spared many ancient wonders from destruction, allowing us to still marvel at their pagan origins in a predominantly Christian city.

To delve deeper into this intriguing blend of ancient and sacred, consider exploring Paganism & Mythology books before your trip, embarking on ancient Rome tours that highlight these connections, or using archaeology maps to trace the evolution of sites.

Ancient Pagan Sites Still Standing in Christian Rome

1. The Pantheon

• Original Pagan Purpose: Built by Emperor Hadrian (c. 125 CE), this magnificent temple was dedicated to all the gods of ancient Rome (“Pantheon” means “all gods”).
• Preservation/Repurposing: In 609 CE, it was consecrated as the Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs by Pope Boniface IV. This act of conversion saved it from ruin, as Christian churches were protected, while pagan temples were often dismantled for building materials or destroyed.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: Its massive, unreinforced concrete dome with the central oculus is an unparalleled feat of Roman engineering. You can still see the original dedication inscription to Agrippa on its portico. Inside, the Christian altars and tombs (like Raphael’s) coexist peacefully with the pagan grandeur of its architecture.
• Location: Piazza della Rotonda (Centro Storico).

2. Temple of Portunus

• Original Pagan Purpose: A small, well-preserved Roman temple dating to the 2nd-1st century BCE, dedicated to Portunus, the god of harbors and ports. Its prominent location near the Tiber River and the Forum Boarium (ancient cattle market) reflects its original function for merchants and sailors.
• Preservation/Repurposing: In the 9th century, it was converted into a Christian church dedicated to Santa Maria Egiziaca (Saint Mary of Egypt). This repurposing involved relatively minor alterations, primarily filling in the intercolumniations (spaces between columns) and adding a Christian roof.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: It retains its original rectangular shape, Ionic columns, and elegant proportions. The Christian additions are clearly visible, but the ancient temple structure is dominant.
• Location: Piazza di Bocca della Verità, near the Tiber River and the Circus Maximus.

3. Mithraic Temples (Mithraea)

• Original Pagan Purpose: Secret underground temples dedicated to the mystery cult of Mithras, a Persian sun god whose worship gained popularity among Roman soldiers and merchants from the 1st to 4th centuries CE. They typically feature a central nave with benches on either side, and an altar often depicting Mithras slaying a bull.
• Preservation/Overlap: These temples were often built beneath existing Roman houses or later Christian churches, either deliberately buried or simply forgotten as the urban landscape changed.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap:
  • San Clemente Basilica: As explored previously, this layered church literally sits atop a remarkably preserved Mithraic temple (and the Roman house beneath it). You can walk down into the pagan shrine below the Christian structures.
  • Baths of Caracalla: A large and well-preserved Mithraeum was discovered beneath the Baths, indicating the cult’s widespread appeal.
  • Circus Maximus: Remains of a Mithraic temple can be found beneath the modern-day parking lot near the Circus Maximus.
• Location: Varies, but commonly found beneath later Roman or Christian structures.

4. Temple of Antoninus and Faustina

• Original Pagan Purpose: Erected in the Roman Forum in 141 CE by Emperor Antoninus Pius, dedicated to his deified wife Faustina the Elder. Upon his death, it was rededicated to both him and his wife.
• Preservation/Repurposing: In the 7th century, it was converted into the Church of San Lorenzo in Miranda. This conversion involved removing the cella (inner chamber) and adding a Baroque facade above the original temple’s columns.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: Its impressive, intact Corinthian columns and the original frieze are still prominently visible in the Roman Forum, with the Baroque church built directly into and above the ancient structure. The contrast between the classical columns and the Christian brick facade is striking.
• Location: Roman Forum.

5. Temple of Vesta (Roman Forum)

• Original Pagan Purpose: A small, circular temple dedicated to Vesta, the goddess of the hearth, home, and family. It housed the sacred flame of Rome, tended by the Vestal Virgins.
• Preservation/Repurposing: It was largely abandoned with the rise of Christianity but was not repurposed as a church. Its circular shape and association with the Vestal Virgins made it unique. Some elements of the surrounding complex were incorporated into later medieval structures.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: Although only fragments remain (three columns and part of its foundation), its distinct circular form is instantly recognizable within the Roman Forum. Its ruins stand near the House of the Vestals.
• Location: Roman Forum.

6. Theatre of Marcellus

• Original Pagan Purpose: An enormous open-air theatre built by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century BCE, capable of seating 11,000 to 20,000 spectators for plays and musical performances.
• Preservation/Repurposing: During the Middle Ages, its surviving arches were converted into residences and shops, transforming it into a fortified palace (which later became the Palazzo Orsini).
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: The impressive lower two tiers of arches are still remarkably preserved, forming the base of the later medieval and Renaissance buildings. You can see apartments and businesses occupying the ancient structure.
• Location: Via del Teatro di Marcello, near the Jewish Ghetto.

7. Temple of Hercules Victor (Tuscania Temple)

• Original Pagan Purpose: Another small, circular temple from the 2nd century BCE (though possibly older foundations), dedicated to Hercules the Victorious, a patron of merchants. It’s built of Greek marble, reflecting Hellenistic influences.
• Preservation/Repurposing: Similar to the Temple of Portunus, it was converted into a church (Santo Stefano delle Carrozze) in the 12th century, which helped ensure its preservation.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: It retains its original elegant circular form and Corinthian columns. Its close proximity to the Temple of Portunus (both now deconsecrated churches) creates a unique ancient landscape.
• Location: Piazza di Bocca della Verità, next to the Temple of Portunus.

8. Baths of Diocletian (and the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri)

• Original Pagan Purpose: The largest imperial baths in ancient Rome, built by Emperor Diocletian in the early 4th century CE. A massive complex of baths, pools, gymnasiums, and libraries.
• Preservation/Repurposing: A significant portion of the frigidarium (cold bath) of the Baths was magnificently repurposed by Michelangelo into the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri in the 16th century, commissioned by Pope Pius IV.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: The sheer scale of the original Roman baths is still evident in the immense main hall of the church, which maintains the original Roman structure and vaults. Other parts of the baths complex now house sections of the National Roman Museum.
• Location: Piazza della Repubblica, near Termini Station.

9. Column of Marcus Aurelius

• Original Pagan Purpose: A monumental victory column erected between 176 and 193 CE, celebrating Emperor Marcus Aurelius’s military campaigns along the Danube. It features a spiraling relief depicting Roman legions in battle.
• Preservation/Repurposing: While not repurposed as a Christian building, it was adapted. In 1589, Pope Sixtus V had a bronze statue of Saint Paul placed atop the column, replacing the lost original statue of Marcus Aurelius.
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: The pagan military monument now bears a Christian saint atop it, a subtle but powerful symbol of the new order.
• Location: Piazza Colonna, on Via del Corso.

10. Castel Sant’Angelo

• Original Pagan Purpose: Built as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family in the 2nd century CE, intended to be a grand burial site for emperors.
• Preservation/Repurposing: Throughout the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a papal fortress and castle, then later a prison, and now a museum. Its defensive walls and strategic location made it invaluable to the Popes, who connected it to the Vatican via the Passetto di Borgo (a fortified elevated walkway).
• Visible Remnants/Overlap: While its original decorative elements are largely gone, its massive cylindrical core and the ramp leading to the burial chamber are ancient Roman. The entire structure stands as a testament to its pagan imperial past being absorbed and fortified by Christian papal power.
• Location: Lungotevere Castello, on the Tiber River.

These sites are powerful reminders that in Rome, history is never truly buried, but rather integrated, transformed, and eternally visible, showcasing the fascinating dialogue between its pagan past and its Christian present.